Trail of the Week: We Welcome Back the Waterline Road Trail after a Two-Year Closure

There were a few things I had forgotten – joys and challenges – about running up Waterline Road in the two years the trail had been closed due to fire and concomitant flooding. But when I returned on Sunday morning, the first weekend the forest service officially reopened it (and Schultz Pass Road, the latter to vehicles), it all came back to me.

I forgot how busy Schultz Tank trailhead gets, featuring many cars with out-of-state plates (Georgia, Colorado, Alabama).

I forgot that the first 0.7 of a mile, before the gate, is one of the deceptively steeper sections of Waterline, which runs 9.1 miles to Inner Basin and then another 4.9 miles to Abineau.

I forgot that the wind is almost constant, and how it can be fickle. Heading east on a long switchback, a tailwind nudges you along. Make a turn heading west, and it slaps you in the face.

I forgot how quickly the weather can change at more than 9,000 feet. Here was Sunday as an example: High clouds and some humidity, followed in a half hour by a driving rainstorm almost coming down horizontally, followed another half hour later by an intense sun, followed by sprinkles for the final stretch.

I forgot how exposed to the elements the trail is, that is, before you reach Inner Basin and get some shade.

I forgot that you need to bring some form of hydration with you, even you’re only running 13 miles, out-and-back.

And I forgot just how gorgeous the views are of Doney Park to the east, the Flagstaff foothills to the south, and how the smooth dirt path, mostly sans boulders, makes it easy swivel your head and drink in said views without tripping and face-planting.

Too many elite runners to mention used Waterline Road for some gentle hill work – on Sunday, I, for instance, gained 1,101 feet in 6.5 miles before the turnaround – and NAU’s cross country teams were frequent travelers on the road.

But on my morning jaunt after the reopening, I saw only two other runners in two hours on the trail. Mountain bikers were more plentiful on this day; oddly, I only saw them coming down, none ascending.

So, to paraphrase the Talking Heads, Waterline Road is the same as it ever was.

However, you will notice several differences:

1. More gravel has been spread in strategic locations where erosion had taken place. At times, it’s heavy, but not a problem for runners. Mountain bikers, however, might be slowed a bit.
2.  At several of the reasonably sharp switchback turns, the sides have been reinforced with bulwarks covered in mesh and the road itself has been paved over for about 20 to 30 feet (see photo).
3. Most of the ponderosa pines in the first mile have been charred, dead trees standing like gnarled headstones. About four miles uphill, when the first of the Aspens start to appear, you’ll see that the trees, sadly, have been exfoliated and their trunks transformed from gleaming white to a greyish, even black, hue.
4. Work still continues the higher you go, with all sorts of Caterpillar equipment parked roadside, so be mindful.
5. Back at the trailhead, be sure to take a gander at Schultz Tank down below. In my five years in Flagstaff, I’ve never seen it so full of water.

What hasn’t changed about Waterline is the rock tunnel about 2.5 miles in, as well as the sense on the trip back down that you’re floating more than running.

Whatever changes workers have made is only to ensure that Waterline Road remain accessible and, should another fire/flood one-two punch hit, the road will be safe.

It was worth the wait.

Waterline Road

Distances: Varying. 15.5-mile out-and-back from Schultz Pass trailhead to the junction with Inner Basin; 28 miles, out-and-back to the Abineau Trail.

Driving Directions: From downtown Flagstaff, take Highway 180/Fort Valley Road to Schultz Pass Road. Turn right. At the “Y,” veer left on Schultz Pass Road (now reopened to vehicles) and travel about five miles on the dirt road past the Sunset Trailhead to the Schultz Tank trailhead a bit farther east.

Route: From the Schultz Pass Trailhead, go east 0.2 of a mile on Schultz Pass Road and turn left at the sign for Waterline Road. Take Waterline as far as you want.